Morris County Landmarks

Ironia

by Tammy Scully

134 years ago, in 1871, a small section of Randolph Township was given a name, and an identity. It was born when the booming iron industry in Morris County was the third largest in the nation. Surrounded by several of the larger and most productive mines, in neighboring Chester, Mine Hill, and Port Oram (Wharton) this section of land drew the attention of several prominent local men. Soon, plans for developing a town out of this isolated woodland were formulated; a town christened, appropriately, "Ironia". It would be the "missing link" along the rich vein of ore that ran from the Dickerson Mine south into Chester.

At the time of this conceptualized plan, there were about 50 dwellings in the surrounding area, mostly farmhouses, along with various gristmills, sawmills and distilleries. But there was no "downtown" as had developed in nearby Chester, Dover, or Succasunna. This was a rural area, where neighbors were miles apart, roadways barely passable, and self-sufficiency a requirement.

The potential for prolific and profitable mines within Ironia did exist. In 1828 the first mining operations began in the Comb's Hollow section, and over the next 60 years about 12 mines were worked. None of the mines, however, proved productive enough to warrant railroad extensions, and families, rather than mining companies, operated most of them.

Daniel Budd and Nathaniel Cooper were two prominent Chester citizens who lobbied for the railroads to come to Chester and connect to the mines further north. The line was opened in 1869, passing along the Black River and through the land upon which Ironia would be developed. Budd joined forces with the Canfields, owners of the Dickerson Mine, and several others to embark upon a three-tiered project to create an industrial town out of this area of wilderness and scattered farmland. The Ironia Iron Company was to develop future railroads needed to access area mines. The Ironia Car and Transportation Company was to manufacture train engines and cars. And the cornerstone of the project, the Ironia Land and Improvement Company, acquired rights to purchase up to 1,000 acres of land in the vicinity of the railroad for the development of a planned community based around the iron industry. A grid of grand paper streets, only a few of which were ultimately constructed, described 50X150 lots which were to be sold along the streets nearest the railroad tracks. And four furnaces, along with the already existing Thorpe's sawmill, were to harness the waterpower from Bryant's Pond to provide the needed materials for the Car and Transportation Company and the Iron Company.


Not a trace of the hotel and general store, shown above in 1902, remain at the Patriot’s Path trailhead (below) at the end of Ironia’s Main Street.

Main Street, Budd Street, and Chester Avenue were the names given to the roads that were to have anchored the town of Ironia. Main Street led to the depot, where a large 14x22 foot station was built. A three-story hotel was constructed here as well, along with a general store and a freight building. Along Budd Street and Chester Ave, three homes were constructed to house mining families. But no more were built, despite the grand scheme of the Ironia Land Company.

In 1873, the country went through an economic downturn and the iron industry suffered. Financing and developing a town based entirely around iron mining now became a risk and the Ironia companies folded. The Land Company sold its accumulated property, and Ironia never materialized into the industrial hub it was envisioned to be. Although several of the larger Ironia-area mining operations were able to continue production for another decade the small Ironia mines could not recover, and their ore was left untapped. Hacklebarney, in Chester, stopped production by the turn of the century. The largest mines, such as the Dickerson and Scrub Oaks Mines in Mine Hill, continued operating until the mid-1900s.


Upon the dissolution of the Ironia Land Company, Dorastus Bryant, who owned a mine, as well as a cider mill and distillery on the Turnpike road from Morristown (Sussex Turnpike), acquired much of the company's land holdings. He farmed the land, planting apple and peach trees. Bryant developed Park Avenue, which leads from Upper Ironia down the incline and over Bryant's Pond, and into Lower Ironia, in the 1880's. He apparently felt that it was a more advantageous route down to his property holdings than the original roadway. A schoolhouse, circa 1903, was located on Park Avenue, sharing a lot with the Ironia Presbyterian Church, built in 1907. The grandson of Dorastus Bryant at one time operated a milk processing plant across from the pond. And the Bryants' Evergreen Park House, which accepted boarders, was the genesis of a tourist trade.

Evidence of tourism in Ironia continued into the mid-1900s. Greenhut Park, located down Pleasant Hill Road along the Black River, just before the boundary with Chester Township, was a summer colony that operated until the 1970s. Greenhut Park boasted its own hotel, the Peggy Lee, which had a large dance and recreation hall. Along the border with Mendham, off of Ironia Road, was the Polish Solkol camp. In the 1930s the Woodland Club nudist colony operated until the days of going naked ended in the 1960s, when early housing developments came too close for comfort. The Woodland Club is now a sportsman's organization.

Although the railroad was meant to serve the now-defunct iron mining industry, it continued to play apart in the development of Ironia. The Chester Railroad, a branch of the Morris and Essex line, offered passenger service as well as the freight line. Ironia children utilized the train to attend classes in Dover. The train ran from Chester and stopped in Horton, Ironia, Succasunna, McCainsville (Kenvil), Port Oram (Wharton), and Dover. Connecting trains into New York City were available. The last Chester Railroad passenger train left Ironia on December 31, 1932. The last freight soon followed. The railway was officially abandoned in December, 1933, and the track dismantled.


Farmland, woods, and a handful of tourist resorts characterized Ironia until the 1970s. The Crowley family had a large milk goat farm. Wally Wrede's River Game Farm had about 20,000 pheasants, and was in operation until the 1980s. The Manning farm, where the very important Almatong Wells are located, was sold to the Morris County Municipal Utilities Authority. These lands supply water to thousands of residents in Randolph and nearby townships. There was the Merrimac Turkey Farm off of Dover-Chester Road, in operation from 1952 until the mid-1970s. The Messer farm on Doby Road and the Hollander farm on Park Avenue are now day camps. Part of the Bryant complex at the intersection of Park Avenue and Sussex Turnpike became the home of the Westinghouse Elevator plant in the mid-1950s. Dairy farming was prevalent here until recently. The Cramer family operated a dairy along Ironia Road, which was known as the Mt. Heist Dairy. Approximately a half-dozen dairy farms were still in operation around 1970.


Bill’s Luncheonette, the repository and symbol of Ironia’s heritage.
Below: Bill Crowley, seated at his general store, has written a small booklet, entitled “Bill Crowley Recalls Stories of Old Ironia”, available for purchase at the store, and is highly recommended for anyone interested in Ironia's past.

The names of the early Ironia families, as well as the later farmers, are reflected in many of the street names. Yet Ironia's heritage- both that of the railroad and iron industry that gave Ironia its name, and the tourism and farming industries which sustained it well into the twentieth century, is disappearing. Its most lasting monument has proven to be Stryker's store, now Bill's Luncheonette, which has presided over Ironia since 1860, from its vantage point just over the border in Chester Township on Route 513, also known here as Dover-Chester Road. In the early days, a forge and a blacksmith shop, located across the side street from the store, and a handful of houses were clustered here, and became known as "Upper Ironia". The road between the store and the forge led down to the railroad depot and the planned town, connecting the roads to Chester and Mendham with Ironia. The store has served as a Sears and Roebuck outlet, the post office, a stop for travelers passing through to Chester or Dover, and a meeting place for local residents.

The Crowley family settled in Ironia, on their Breezy Hill goat farm, in the 1940s. They purchased the general store from the Strykers, and became Postmasters. Bill Crowley worked as Postmaster from 1944 ­ 1982, served on the original Ironia Fire Department from its inception in 1947 until the 1960s, and has been owner of Bill's Luncheonette and General Store since 1949.

The general store retains much of the character of a store from a by-gone era. Many old photographs of Ironia are displayed here along with many other interesting items in this 140 year-old building. You can buy newspapers, milk, snacks, toiletries, and other necessities, and the grill is always on, with seating for about 50. The store has been a gathering place for locals and travelers alike, and remains so today. But there have been changes.

Bill states that "all people, from all walks of life" visit the store. Now, most come in for a quick cup of coffee in the morning and to pick up milk after work. It used to be more of a gathering place, he admits. "A lot of these (new) people don't even know we are here," he states. Unlike the recent past, when the store was the meeting place for all residents, newcomers and natives alike, the changing face of the Ironia population, and its growth, is reflected in the store's clientele. But Bill can be found there almost every afternoon.

In "Lower Ironia", Main Street still exists today. It is a small residential roadway to nowhere... unless one is familiar with the history. Today, the former railroad bed, from the location of the Ironia station and through to the Chester station, is part of the Morris County Park System's Patriot's Path. Additional trails connect through the Black River Wildlife Management Area and up to Bill's General Store. This is hunting land, and hikers must take precautions.

Ironia’s five designated landmarks are listed in The History of Randolph Township, published in 1976. Pictured below from left:
• At 1547 Sussex Turnpike, near the Park Avenue intersection, the banked stone and frame structure known as D.L. Bryant Distillery, was begun in 1809. In 1869 it was remodeled and was soon famous as the home of “Bryant's Pure Old Cider Brandy”, locally renowned applejack. In 1938, the distillery was remodeled into a residence.
• One of the few Ironia Land and Development Company Homes that was actually built around 1872 on Budd Street.
• Community Church, built on Park Avenue in 1907.
• Golden Corner House, Ironia’s oldest house, built in 1826 on the corner of Pleasant Hill Road and Route 513.
In addition, the Combs Hollow Historic District is at the intersection of Combs Avenue and Combs Hollow Road.

Comments

Ira Salamon
08 Oct 2008, 04:05
This article and the posts are great. I moved to John Court in Ironia in 1966, and while I may be a relative newcomer compared to most of the other posts, I still have great memories of an Ironia of yesteryear. I was 6 when we arrived in Ironia. I remember walking to Bills everyday after school to get our mail. There was no mail delivery unless you wanted a Dover mailing address. Bryant's pond was a gathering place for camp fires and skating every winter and fishing all summer long. I remember walking along those power lines and actually getting lost back in the woods there once. I followed the old train racks to find my way back to "civilization". I remember playing little league baseball at Heisteins park and swimming in the lake there. That was off South Road and behind Messers. Ed Messer was one of my best friends growing up and I never knew that his family owned a farm. His dad owned a company called Oradell Construction and never spoke of farming. The Manning's of Manning Farm were friends of mine too. I remember riding my sled down John Court toward Park Avenue and almost getting hit by a telephone repair truck. It was pretty close. I remember going horseback riding at Horseshoe acres. We played baseball in the field across from The Old Presbyterian Church. Kind of weird what that's become. I remember going back to try to see stuff at the Nudist Colony too...never any luck. Those were some great times growing up. Thanks for the memories.
Alan
05 Oct 2008, 22:46
Like another contirbutor to this page who may be a cousin of mine I haven't seen in years, I too summered in Greenhut Park as a child in the 1960's. I dearly remember the summer home my parents shared with my grandparents right on the black river. Our neighbors included, among others, the Whitings, the Tannenbaums, the Dubovs and others whose names I have long forgotten.

Special memories include the most incredible starry nights on the east coast anyone could ever hope to see, the sounds of crickets, bullfrogs and other local critters lulling you to sleep, catching bass, sunfish, frogs, turtles and minnows in and around the river and feeding the Canadian Geese that would eat from your hand.

More personal memories include the sound of my grandfather's Cadillac pulling up Friday evenings so he could spend every weekend there, trips to Crowleys, toy runs to Two Guys from Harrison,our vegetable garden and drnking the richest, freshest exrta rich chocolate milk from the nearby dairy from my grandmother's clorful aluminium cups while sitting inour recliners and "gliders" in our porch(I'm still trying to loose the weight that put on).

Those summers, while not perfect, were nonetheless a great break for a kid who lived in Brooklyn the rest of the year.

My grandparents are long since gone, as is my mother and I've lived on the other side of the country for some time. I have a family of my own and my profession makes it difficult to get away for very long or very far. I often wonder what it is like there now; still the same sleepy town; commericially overgrow; somewhere in the middle?

Several restless nights I've managed to get to sleep thinking about those days of carefeee fun, endlessley drinking chocolate milk, seeing the fireflies come out at dusk like so many little Christmas lights and playing "stoplight" with my friends well after dark as our parents and grandparents sat and talked and chuckled at us.

Until they build a time machine, fond memoeries of the heart will just have to do.
Charles "Rusty" Brewer
28 Sep 2008, 11:50
I grew up on Main Street. We moved there in 1960 and I left for college in 1970. (My father lived there until 1990.) When we moved to Main Street, it was a partial gravel road (our sleds made sparks as we sledded down it) and there were only three houses on the street - one was a tiny log cabin! I remember as a boy playing in the ruins of the old train station at the bottom of Main Street. I believe my father swiped rocks from the foundation for the huge rock wall he built in front of our house. We skated on and fished in Bryant's Pond and attended the Presbyterian Church. We got our mail at Bill Crowley's store. I recently returned to Ironia and found the store still there; it's now a luncheonette run by Bill's son. The tiny church appears to be a Korean Presbyterian church now. I remember hiking along the "bridal path" - what we called the old track track, now Patriot's Path. In the winter we would even ice skate in the swamp - a singularly spooky experience! I liked to follow the power lines that crossed Park Avenue at Bryant's Pond. We used to sneak through the woods hoping to catch a glimpse of the nudists at the Woodland Club - but never saw anything! We suspected the nudist camp story was just a myth. When I tell people I grew up in New Jersey, they think of the opening scenes of The Sopranos. I tell them it was much more like growing up in a small New England town.
Rich
25 Aug 2008, 06:38
I summered in Ironia, in small bungalow colony called Greenhut Park. My grandfather would take my older sister and I to Crowley's for a Mountain Dew in a glass bottle! I'll never forget the ride in his 65 light blue Impala. My parents and Grandparents owned a small house on Selma Blvd, right near Lake Lilian. My best childhood memories are of this sleepy community. I miss it dearly.
Scott Dewey
18 Aug 2008, 18:14
I grew up on Budd Street in Ironia but left after graduating high school in 1975 and have not been back. It was a wonderful place to grow up and I have many, many wonderful childhood memories which include ice skating on Bryant's Pond, snow sledding down the hill on Budd Street, and riding mini bikes on the old railroad trails.
This is the first article I have ever found on the internet (or anywhere) with such detail about Ironia. Wow!
Fred Biolchini
24 Jul 2008, 05:56
Martha Jane,

And I distincly remember you! As for the polka, I don't remember it since I never knew how to do it in the first place!

We all seem to remember each other very well after forty-something years. How strange and how wonderful! My kids are now 35 and 27 and they went to several sleep-away camps but their memories of those experiences qucikly faded. My memories of the DA Sokol camp remain vivid. It was a very special place.

Also, please send my regards to your sister Kathy.

Fred

Martha Jane (Lonigan) Makse
11 Jul 2008, 19:15
Came across this site tonight, Fred, I remember you distinctly. Remember trying to do the polka at a dance with you in Manhattan. I always tell my students, as I told my own children, every kid should go to sleepaway camp. Weren't those great, simple times!

I've also seen the remmaining entrance to the camp grounds, Bill's and the new houses.

Martha Jane
Fred Biolchini
21 Apr 2008, 13:30
Johnny,

Your note set off a flood of memories. Please do send me a copy of your article.

Remember the summer of '65 when we set off on bicycle from Manhatten after the camp had closed? At night we would turn the taps on in the old barn and party like Indians!

Lots of water has passed under the dam since then!

Cheers!

Freddie
John Foray
16 Apr 2008, 18:09
Hey, Freddie!

Your remarks about D A Sokol Camp at Ironia were right on the money. Your remembrance of Gus Matous was especially poignant, as he passed away in Boulder Co. on 26 February 2008. I was checking out this website for background material for an article I'm writing about Gus and camp.

It's been quite a while since my last cannonball, but thanks for remembering.
If you see this, please contact me so I can send you my article.
Laura Null
31 Mar 2008, 19:22
It doesn't surprise me that the DA Sokol camp is now McMansions, but it makes me sad to know it. Those of us who lived in the nearby subdivision used to sneak into the camp when it was unoccupied and skinny-dip in the lake! (Something I've never told my mother....)

The whole area is rich in magic and small, intimate histories, and the memories of children who grew up there.
Fred Biolchini
31 Mar 2008, 18:17
I attended the DA Sokol camp in Ironia from 1958 through 1966 as camper, junior counselor and counselor. For the record, DA Sokol was a Czechoslovakian social organization built around gymnastics and sports in general. To a city kid like myself, the DA Sokol camp in Ironia was salvation from the summer streets of New York City, an education in natural history and fun beyond anything I could imagine. The Director at the time, Gus Matous, had such a profound positive influence on my childhood and adolescence that I could not even begin to assess what my life might have been without him and that wonderful camp.

Among the memories: swimming and diving in the lake, campfires on Tuesdays and Thursdays (singing “Sipping Cider Through a Straw”, “Be Kind To Your Friends In The Swamp, A Duck Can Be Somebody’s Mother”), the wonderful food cooked by Mrs. Matous (especially the pork roast with dumplings and sauerkraut on Saturdays), the rites of passage, Burma trail (a passage through the swamp made of old mattresses and bed frames), weekly hikes to Bill’s General Store, the sleep-outs at the end of every 2 week session, the morning flag raising and the evening flag lowering (both accompanied by bugle calls) and the Sokol cheer ” ZDA, ZDA, ZDA”!

If anyone still remembers, the DA Sokol camp did not have flush toilets. Instead, they had two series of outhouses, one for the girls and one for the boys. Lost in time is the reason why and the person who named those outhouses “Murphys”. In any case, if anyone is wondering where that sign ended up: it’s nailed to the wall of my garage.

I made a trip there in August of 2008. To my surprise, Bill’s General Store is still in existence. Bill has passed away but his son, Tim, now runs the place. It’s a frozen moment in time. The pipe rails on the steps have never been replaced, the blenders used to make malted milk are still there and Tim is full of stories about his father. The old camp is gone, replaced by the ubiquitous McMansions but there is one remnant. The original entranceway to the DA Sokol camp off Ironia road is still there and, putting my ear against one of the stones I can hear the laughter of children, the thwack of screen doors and the whomp of Johnny Foray’s infamous cannonballs from the old diving board.
Laura Null
11 Jan 2008, 16:23
It amazes me that Crowley's is still there. It was a landmark of my childhood. We lived for a short time on Ironia Road in Mendham (it is now, for some reason, a continuation of South Road) and we went to Crowleys. In 1958 we moved back to the area, to Dogwood Acres in Chester. My mother always went to Crowley's. It was quicker than going to the post office in Chester. I collected soda bottles from all the home construction sites nearby and brought them to Crowleys to redeem them for pennies and nickels, which of course immediately got spent on candy. The very sight of the place, with its tall front steps, brings back memories, and I can still vividly remember how the inside looked.
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